When to tranquilize a horse

I thought I would address this one after a couple questions regarding tranquilizing horses was put to me by a friend. So, when should you tranq? Whenever your safety or that of your horse is compromised. Simple as that. However, I am of the belief that tranq'ing a horse should always be a temporary measure (whenever possible). Obviously, there is the odd situation (such as having your horse's teeth floated with electric tools at the vet's office) where tranq'ing a horse is necessary at all times. On that note, I don't think it is always necessary to sedate every horse to have its teeth done, but most vets won't do your horse's teeth, particularly with electric tools, without sedating your horse first (or at least that's how it goes up here in Alberta, Canada, anyways). And for good reason. How do they know how your horse is going to react when they power up those dental tools? Their safety has to come first.

So what are some situations where sedating your horse could be okay as a temporary measure?

Farrier work if your farrier's well-being is going to be jeopardized by a fearful or disrespectful horse, it might be time to sedate your horse to have his feet done before they get into really bad shape. Keep in mind though that it should be a temporary measure - in the mean time, you can work directly on having your horse pick up his feet or indirectly on his general attitude.

Clipping there's the odd time it might be absolutely necessary to clip a horse but your horse won't allow it. Whilst working on desensitization and earning your horse's trust enough to clip him the next time, you can sedate him so as to clip him safely.

These are just a couple examples; I am sure there are many more. In my experiences with tranq'ing horses thus far, it does not solve the specific "issue" with the horse on a permanent basis, but it can make your work with said horse safer so as to successfully accomplish a particular task. I have never had a horse tranquilized myself, however we used to do it on a few specific horses at the track; one of which was Link, the Thoroughbred we purchased last fall. He absolutely refused to stand for the farrier and so would be sedated each time the farrier came around to work on him. At that time, while holding Link, I usually played with his ears in the hopes of desensitizing his ears to being touched (he refused to allow his ears to be touched, which could make for a lot of trouble while trying to trim him a bridle path!). It never worked. Not only did he remain a terrible actor with his feet (he would allow me to pick them or pack them, but that was it), he still wouldn't let you to so much as brush his ears when he wasn't sedated.

Sedating a horse does not work (in my experiences) long-term because you are neglecting the root of the issue. There is perhaps the odd situation I can think of off hand where sedating a horse and then working on them could actually progress their training (such as in "sacking out" or such perhaps), but that's just a theory to consider as a last resort. Anyways, it works on a temporary basis obviously because the horse is too dopey to react negatively. However the reason the horse did not want to be clipped/trimmed/shod/etc in the first place (usually) persists and thus when the horse awakes he will still be just as head-shy, clipper-shy, itchy with his feet, etc as he was prior to being sedated. On the other hand, it does not affect a horse adversely to sedate them to perform a task on them, then allow them to wake up. Thus far, when done properly, I have yet to see it destroy a horse's trust in a person or set a horse back in its training...because it really - in itself - isn't doing anything (either negatively or positively) in the first place. In the mean time though, work on the "trouble spot" from another direction. To be honest, after we purchased Link and brought him home, I never actually worked on his feet, nor on his ears, directly. Instead, I worked hard at earning his trust and respect. He now stands good for the farrier 90 percent of the time, and we're working on the other 10 percent by further "unwinding" him emotionally. I can touch his ears almost anytime (or spend a second or two before he gives me permission to touch his ears the times he doesn't allow me to immediately) and he will allow anyone he trusts to touch his ears (those he does not yet trust, he'll raise his head out of reach)...and I never have any problem clipping his bridlepath.

I would definitely consider tranq'ing a horse if yours or the horse's safety could be compromised during a procedure vital to the horse. No, the actual tranquilizing itself should not set your horse's training back, but neither will it likely help you on a permanent basis. So don't consider it a permanent solution, work on a more permanent solution in the mean time and seek professional help if you're stumped! Any experiences out there with sedating horses where it did or did not help?

Deworming

Ah, deworming has got to be everyone's favourite activity. *ahem* just kidding. But it doesn't have to be as hard as it often is. We've got two horses over sixteen hands and there's no way I want to struggle with getting some stupid tube into their mouths. Oh yea, then hold their chins up all those 16++ hands of neck to make sure they don't spit out the paste (our Quarab holds the paste in his mouth, very purposely, then tries to wipe it on you afterwards if you're not careful). So, this is going to be a brief post with one suggestion: molasses. Or some other type of dense liquid you find your horse likes. Put some molasses in empty, previously-used dewormer tubes and "deworm" your horse as usual (just use a little bit at first, so that it doesn't get all over you). It usually takes a try or two, but before long your horse is grabbing for the tube. Then - oops, one day there is actually dewormer in there! Make sure to put some molasses in a time or two afterwards though so he's back to remembering the dewormer as a good thing.

Handling feet

This summer I was contacted by an individual who had recently purchased a 3yo TB/Appy sporthorse gelding. Among some of the dangerous behaviours the owner was having trouble managing in this horse, she couldn't handle his feet. When she tried handling his hinds, he would kick out violently, almost nailing her in the head during one occasion. With anyone tried to pick up his fronts, he reared.

Now, this horse had a lot of issues stemming from a strong lack of respect and thus that had to be addressed as well. Many issues, in fact, stem from something underlying rather than the issue itself - often an insufficient level of trust or respect. A horse who lacks sufficient trust in her handler will refuse to pick up her feet as well and may even defensively kick out with her hinds; she's not going to let a predator take away her only mode of escape! We had 2yo Thoroughbreds fresh off the farm arrive at the track who were skittish to begin with - getting them to pick their feet up off the ground was sometimes like climbing Everest! While it is always important to address the root issue, there is also a lot that one can do specifically with a horse's feet to accustom their feet to being handled or to work on a foot issue, directly and specifically. Keep in mind though that there often is more to it, more that can be done in addition to just handling the horse's feet, even if the horse's only "issue" seems to be with allowing its feet to be handled - it can be less about the feet than it is about the horse's overall state of mind toward you. I highly recommend the Parelli 7 games and Patterns of course, though there are other methods that also address respect and trust while building a partnership with a horse.

Desensitize your horse
Work on your horse until she allows you to touch her anywhere. Use approach and retreat, and reward the slightest "try" (if I have a horse who does particularly well at something, say accepting a tarp for example, I'll walk away to give them a break before continuing - I might do this several times in a session even). Use all sorts of materials once she is relaxed when you use your hand - it's not that if you play with a tarp your horse will now accept tarps forever more, but it builds trust in your leadership and exposes your horse to various situations.

Use ropes first
With a young horse I often will just get down and dirty - get right in there under their feet. However if they are particularly violent with their feet, if they're older, or if I'm unsure of the horse and how they will react, I will use ropes. If you're unsure, use ropes - it never hurts and it could keep you safe! You can take a long leadrope - something soft and thick (Parelli's 12' line works great) and loop it around your horse's pasterns, attaching it back on itself (close the snap over the rope once it is passed around the horse's pastern). Make sure the rope can come loose if it needs to, or that it won't stay tight after you remove pressure, and make sure that your horse is comfortable with having ropes touch her first. Start with the front feet, as horses tend to be more comfortable having their front feet handled than their hinds. Standing out of the way, gently apply pressure. If your horse starts fidgeting nervously, use approach and retreat to accustom your horse to the pressure. Otherwise, apply gentle pressure and increase the tension in the rope until your horse releases - reward the slightest try (even the thought or weight shift) by releasing tension in the rope immediately. Ask for more of a "try" each time (not rewarding until you get the "increased" try) until your horse will hold its foot up. End when she releases (lifts her foot) and relaxes. If you're having a lot of trouble though, it is ok to end without as much progress - just make sure to always end with relaxation (if possible). Once your horse is relaxed with the rope, you can get underneath her to ask her to pick up her feet. I teach all my horses the 7 games, including the Porcupine game; when I ask for feet to be raised I use the Porcupine game, pinching the chestnuts on the front legs and the caps of the hocks on the hinds to ask for a horse to lift its feet. You can use your own method/cue, but I really find this one to be effective.

Sometimes it is a combination of issues that give reason for a horse not lifting her feet or acting badly when her feet are worked with, but sometimes simple work such as above is what is needed :)

Desensitization vs earning trust

One of our OTTB geldings, Sonny

The following is written by Fugly Horse of the Day author Cathy, over on It's a Really Long Way Down, her personal blog. I had some strong thoughts on it originally, but today was the day things really clicked for me to produce a clear picture. Please take note I am not endorsing Cathy or her FHOTD blog in any way, shape, or form. So, the quote (in regards to desensitizing horses):

"On a related note, do you believe that horses can get too desensitized to the point where they become dull and react to nothing, or is that your goal? I think it kind of depends on how you use them. I think a dull horse is the easiest horse to sell and the most likely horse to find a good home. But obviously that horse isn't going to be your star athlete in a lot of disciplines. I know many people who believe, for example, that spooky horses just have a prettier jump and there's probably some truth to that. They are not going to risk their hoofies touching a scary rail, that's for sure. Does your discipline favor the dull horse or the edgy athlete, and how does your training seek to create that?"

Personally, I think a dull horse is a horse who has been discouraged from being curious and who has been taught to not think for himself. It's a horse ridden with heavy hands and spurs. He reacts to nothing because he's learned he'd better not react and he really just doesn't care anymore. It can also be a very non-reactive, naturally laid-back and confident horse who has never been sensitized, or taught to be light. Some horses just are not naturally reactive as a whole (particularly if they are mentally and emotionally balanced horses) - the Left-brained horses. . I currently have two such horses myself even. The one, a left-brain introvert, is not going to give you much though if you have not earned his respect - earn his partnership and he's in - all four feet. With most people though he would be classified as "dull" and lazy. As far as the edgy horse, well I've got one of those as well. My own "edgy" horse is balanced emotionally and I have worked hard to develop a strong partnership with him. As such, while he is still very sensitive, he follows my leadership. He's relaxed rather than "edgy" and is no more liable to spook than I am (of course, if I spook, it follows that he will too - lol). He is also a very athletic horse, but I would not necessarily place him above my other horses, even my "dull" Warmblood cross (who is not at all "dull", but he would be classified as such in most hands). Take note too that I have worked with additional horses in either category have found the same. It's not about desensitization. I strongly do not believe you can "over desensitize" a horse. It (that is, whether a horse is dull or edgy) is dependant completely upon your program and partnerships with your horses.

But back to the topic. Desensitizing. This is one of the areas I feel the Parelli Natural Horsemanship differs from other methods, even John Lyons (where horses are taught to spook in place). See the Friendly game is about desensitizing, but it about so much more than that. All 7 games focus not only on earning a horse's respect, but also on earning their trust - on earning a partnership. Today I was tossing ropes around a new mare when it hit me. I've always said that you can't desensitize a horse to everything, there is always going to be something you run across one day that the horse has not seen, and that is where methods that rely purely on desensitization will fail. Tossing ropes over this mare, playing with tarps (a task for another day), and generally just playing all our games are not about desensitization. Sure, that helps. However it is more than that. I am placing this mare in an unfamiliar, scary situation, and I am leading her through it. I am using approach and retreat, never over-challenging her past thresholds she cannot handle, and am generally acting calm, patient, and consistent to represent a strong leader to her. With the ropes, I am introducing her to something she is leery of (as a prey animal), yet those ropes never hurt her. Eventually she becomes accustomed to the ropes but she also gains trust in my leadership, because to her, I ensured her safety. I proved myself a herd leader and went up a notch in doing so. Each task I present her with I am not simply desensitizing her or teaching her something else, I am also earning her trust by getting her through said task safely. That way next time we encounter something we have never seen before, it's not such a big deal to her, she will be willing to follow my leadership and touch or walk past the scary object without objection rather than spooking (a safety mechanism on her part). She'll have enough trust that I got her through all sorts of other prior situations that I can also get her through this one. The proof was really in the pudding today though as the aforementioned mare I was working with reacted less and less and grew calmer and calmer with each new thing I presented her with - she was already investing enough trust in me to get her past a few of the challenging tasks I put her through.

So rather than "making a horse deal" with scary objects (as per Cathy's personal blog It's a Long Way Down) and desensitizing them, does it not make better sense to simply earn such a high level of trust that they trust our leadership and so can follow our calm assertive leadership? That way when we encounter a new object, if we don't spook, they won't either, because our horses will be taking direction from us. I just think that our overall demeanor and methods of working with our horses play more of a role in how our horses handle situations later than actual desensitization does - overall.

Jumpers should not be over-jumping out of fear of a rail and naturally edgy horses do not necessarily have an advantage over naturally dull horses in competition - in my opinion. It is not simply about whether or not a horse is naturally dull or edgy, because so many other factors contribute and combine to create the horse in front of you. Furthermore, it is our job as a rider to 'balance' a horse mentally and emotionally and when we do so we take the extreme responses (whether dull or edgy) out of the equation - we create a horse who is neither overly dull nor overly reactive or edgy. A star athlete needs to be focused, not edgy or reactive (who wastes energy and lacks efficiency), nor dull. The same is required of the average amateur horse - no rider likes to be constantly prodding their horse along, and neither do they wish to be on a horse who is overly reactive and spooky. So with the naturally reactive horse, we focus on desensitization and earning trust (creating a quiet, calm, confident horse), whereas with the naturally dull horse, we focus on sensitization and earning respect (we create a lighter, responsive horse). In my opinion, there is therefore no such thing as too much desensitization because desensitization is not what creates a dull horse.

PS - Oh and for anyone noting the photo and panicking about the leadrope being on the ground...this horse is past the stage of exploding when he accidentally steps on his leadrope. Part of my program, part of the PNH program, is teaching horses to be calmer, braver, smarter partners and also includes teaching them to move off of pressure. So many horses explode when they accidentally step on a rein or leadrope, which is dangerous - but we've all been there. When I first start working with a horse, that is usually where they are at too - it's prey animal instinct to react in fear, often violently, when they find themselves trapped (ie. tangled in a lead, etc). As you teach them to remain calm, think situations through, and to move off of pressure though, this disappears. Sonny and I have put in a lot of time in this area, so I can say with 100 percent confidence and accuracy that if he steps on that leadrope, he's going to either calmly sit there and wait for me to 'rescue' him, or he is going to slowly back off of it so that he is free again. No safety hazards involved.